African Safari Trip notes--Tanzania - January 28- February 17, 2013
African Safari Group led by Jim Brett
Mark & Wendy
Mike & Lauren
Sandra & Brian
Sally & Racey
Deb and Neal
Mon..Jan. 28-We leave D. C. promptly at 7:30AM by car- driving to Newark Airport where we are to fly to Atlanta and then onto Amsterdam, then onto Arusha, Tanzania. It is a murky, rainy drive but we make great time: there by 11:30 AM. But ....Delta tells us that flight to Atlanta is delayed enough that.we would have mused our connection, so we get rerouted to JFK to take a 4 PM direct flight.
We had very good flights, first to Amsterdam, where we had a 5 hour lay over, finding it actually a beautiful building, with many comforts.
By now we have met up with all of our fellow travellers - us and 4 other couples, and Jim Brett, our fearless leader.Then on to Arusha, Tanzania. KLM food was quite good. Service was excellent. And, we had extra seats on both flights. Most impressive view was that of the Sahara -vast beige expanse. We got to Arusha round 10 pm and were met by Jim's staff. Off to the hotel, a small snack, and bed. It took us 36 hours of travel.
Wed. Jan. 30- our first day in Africa - WOW. After a late breakfast, at the Mountain Village Lodge, set in an old coffee plantation,
we set off for Taranrgire National Park, A 2-3 hr. drive,partly on paved
and partly on gravel roads ( with very regular speed bumps), complete
with a big rainstorm as we were descending into the Rift Valley. What
an afternoon! We saw many elephants, giraffe, lions-several that we
were able to follow as they walked through the grasses, 2 cheetahs,
impala, Cape buffalo.
We saw at least 16 bird species, all of them new to us and many of them quite colorful. We got to our campsite - Mbuyi Mingi Special Camp -around 5 and settled into our luxury tents that have beds, sinks, toilets, and showers.
We are sitting around having drinks, and soon dinner in the dinner tent. This is the way to camp!!
Thurs..Jan. 31-Up early - coffee or hot chocolate by our tents so that we were off in the land rovers by 7:30 am for 3 hours of magical bird watching and large animal watching. Here we are standing up in the Land Rover, a great way to travel and see the sites:
We saw 18 new bird species this morning and many repeats - the Martial Eagle, the Rufous Eagle, European Rollers - many, Superb Starlings ( true to their name), several kinds of Francolins, etc.... and an all time favorite of the Liliac Breasted Roller:
We saw at least 16 bird species, all of them new to us and many of them quite colorful. We got to our campsite - Mbuyi Mingi Special Camp -around 5 and settled into our luxury tents that have beds, sinks, toilets, and showers.
We are sitting around having drinks, and soon dinner in the dinner tent. This is the way to camp!!
Thurs..Jan. 31-Up early - coffee or hot chocolate by our tents so that we were off in the land rovers by 7:30 am for 3 hours of magical bird watching and large animal watching. Here we are standing up in the Land Rover, a great way to travel and see the sites:
We saw 18 new bird species this morning and many repeats - the Martial Eagle, the Rufous Eagle, European Rollers - many, Superb Starlings ( true to their name), several kinds of Francolins, etc.... and an all time favorite of the Liliac Breasted Roller:
Elephants, lots and lots of them. One herd of 30 crossed the road right in front of us.
Male, females, babes, so very close to us. Really amazing to experience. We noted lion footprints on the road:
We saw a number of warthogs, which actually are pretty interesting to watch. They root around the ground for insects with their long snouts, have small horns on their snouts for defense. Saw 2 giraffes, fairly far away yet well seen - graceful,,very. And, Impalas - several small groups of them and they are even prettier up close than in their pictures .
We came back for a late breakfast, brunch,elegantly served by our staff: omelettes and bacon, homemade toast, fresh fruit,coffee, hot chocolate, fruit juice.
Then time for showers and naps until our afternoon wildlife drive.
Then time for showers and naps until our afternoon wildlife drive.
Some notes about our tents: the living space is about 12 square feet and has two twin beds that make a great king sized bed, a metal rack for suitcases, towels, etc. Space to hang a close line too. Then, off the back of the tent is a tent addition of a washstand/dressing area about 3 x 12 feet with a small metal washbasin/cabinet.. Then behind that, 4 x 12 feet are two smaller "rooms" one of which is the toilet area and the other the shower. The plumbing is gravity from pails of water. The toilet flushes into the ground, but sure is better than squatting over the hole!!! The shower is quite satisfactory. One is able to gaze across the landscape while showering! Again- this is camping in a new style.
So, after a good naps, doing some stretches,writing, compiling of bird lists, and reading, we are off for the afternoon.
Fri. Feb. 1 - Game Drive to Selali Swamp - in Tarangire Park
Left around 9 AM for a day of adventure and over 30 new birds, many mammal.. Highlight of morning was the Pygmy Falcon. Saw Cokes Wildbeast! Spent a good 20 min. Successfully IDing an African Cuckoo. Many Weaver nests hanging from trees, these are really everywhere. Have been seeing Whiteheaded Buffalo Weaver & Red Billed Buffalo Weaver & Rufous Buffalo Weaver. Saw a Leopard Tortise by the side of the road. Reed Buck Antelope viewed as we drove by. More colorful birds - Red Yellow Barbette, Grey Headed Kingfisher, Beeeaters. We had lunch about 1 PM overlooking Selali Swamp. Then we drove along the swamp, seeing many more Elephants out in the swamp walking along. Many more new birds: Kori Bustards with one male in full display, Egrets, Spur winged Goose, Hottentot Teal. Had some time to relax and shower, and we had clean laundry! After another fab dinner, off to bed.
Sat. Feb. 2 - Drive to Lake Natron
Most of today was a 7 hour drive to Lake Natron, pretty much due north of Tarangire Park, great deal of it on gravel road . We circumvented a huge volcano - Ol Doingo Lengal (Mountain of the Gods), that most recently erupted in 2008, at which time Jim was actually at Lake Natron and had to evacuate. Miles and miles of road over lava fields and volcanic ash. The vegetation is slowly coming back. Saw a number of Zebra today. Neatest new bird was a flocks of Red Billed Quellas. The Ostriches were pretty cool too. The truly amazing thing is to keep seeing these very spectacular birds and mammals all day long while driving along.
Most of today was a 7 hour drive to Lake Natron, pretty much due north of Tarangire Park, great deal of it on gravel road . We circumvented a huge volcano - Ol Doingo Lengal (Mountain of the Gods), that most recently erupted in 2008, at which time Jim was actually at Lake Natron and had to evacuate. Miles and miles of road over lava fields and volcanic ash. The vegetation is slowly coming back. Saw a number of Zebra today. Neatest new bird was a flocks of Red Billed Quellas. The Ostriches were pretty cool too. The truly amazing thing is to keep seeing these very spectacular birds and mammals all day long while driving along.
Sun. Feb 3- Up early (6 Am) and off to see the 118,000 year old foot prints that Jim found in 2008 when he was here working w/ the Pink Flamingos.
The Footprints are now protected, as are the Flamingos. There are over 40 of them visible, both male and female, spaced a stride apart. They are just under the old volcanic ash, and there is no knowing how many there are yet undiscovered. On the way back from breakfast, we say the Pink Flamingos from a distance, hundreds,if not a thousand, of them. We were then back at the Lodge and ate a hearty breakfast and are now ready, at 9:30AM to set off on our long, 6-7 hour, drive to our camp on the southern rim of Ngorngoro Crater for the next to nights..
The Footprints are now protected, as are the Flamingos. There are over 40 of them visible, both male and female, spaced a stride apart. They are just under the old volcanic ash, and there is no knowing how many there are yet undiscovered. On the way back from breakfast, we say the Pink Flamingos from a distance, hundreds,if not a thousand, of them. We were then back at the Lodge and ate a hearty breakfast and are now ready, at 9:30AM to set off on our long, 6-7 hour, drive to our camp on the southern rim of Ngorngoro Crater for the next to nights..
We stopped almost immediately in a Maasi village where Jim knew some of the men. we basically hung out for about an hour, partly to change a flat tire. There was a checkers game , which was a board using bottle caps for pieces.
Sandy played with a Maasai and lost. Sunday school was going on and we got to enjoy watching and listening to the children singing. One boy had on an Obahma T shirt!
Sandy played with a Maasai and lost. Sunday school was going on and we got to enjoy watching and listening to the children singing. One boy had on an Obahma T shirt!
Then we basically had another long drive. Three plus hours back to the main road and then lunch, then another three hours to Ngorongoro Crater, getting to the gate of the park about 5 PM and to our campsite about 7 PM.
The scenery was phenomenal- being on the rim looking across and down the crater which is 12 miles across was awe inspiring and made for a beautiful sunset. The highlight of our drive to the camp was having a leopard cross the rod in front of us, pause there for a minute, and then saunter back into the bushes. That was a wow moment. Now for a late dinner ,as staff was still setting up when we got here, having had their truck breakdown on the way here. Also, it is significantly cooler here. We are all putting on our fleeces. Should be good for sleeping.
The scenery was phenomenal- being on the rim looking across and down the crater which is 12 miles across was awe inspiring and made for a beautiful sunset. The highlight of our drive to the camp was having a leopard cross the rod in front of us, pause there for a minute, and then saunter back into the bushes. That was a wow moment. Now for a late dinner ,as staff was still setting up when we got here, having had their truck breakdown on the way here. Also, it is significantly cooler here. We are all putting on our fleeces. Should be good for sleeping.
Monday, Feb 4
We got up at 5:45 am so that we could start our day on the floor of Ngorongoro Crater at dawn, and we were indeed on the road by 6:45 and on the crater floor by 7:30 am, having had coffee and biscuit only. This was a really big day, for both birds and animals. We saw another 35 new birds, bringing our grand total to around 140. We came upon and watched for a very long time a pride of lions eating a recent kill of Widebeast, which was too far away for our camera to catch well. They were ripping out the innards when we got there, then later the legs,etc..there were about six females and two males ( at first, but the the largest male chased the other male away). The lions roamed around our vehicles ( there being about eight there) and took naps in the shade of the vehicles, so they were amazingly close.
Hyenas and Jackals were hovering nearby, and the Jackals actually tried to get quite close, but dared not really try to get a bite while the lions were there. After leaving them, we were granted another lifetime mammal event of seeing two Rhinoceroses, a couple who were clearly in the process of mating.
He was very ready and kept trying to get her to accept his advances but she was not ready yet and laid down for a nap, and he did too, a bit later, after nuzzling her a bit more.
Hyenas and Jackals were hovering nearby, and the Jackals actually tried to get quite close, but dared not really try to get a bite while the lions were there. After leaving them, we were granted another lifetime mammal event of seeing two Rhinoceroses, a couple who were clearly in the process of mating.
We had late breakfast by a pond full of Hippopotami, with some water birds around - White Pelican, Sacred Ibis, African Black Kite, etc.. The Hippos were the main attraction, but hard to get really good photos of as they mostly stayed submerged.
The African Black Kites tried to snatch our food, unsuccessfully. Sacred Ibis here too.
The African Black Kites tried to snatch our food, unsuccessfully. Sacred Ibis here too.
We then spent the afternoon on another game drive, seeing the GreaterFlamingos, from afar, as the road is not very close to the lake so as to not disturb their habitat. They appear like a sea of undulating pink and, when you focus on then, you can see their heads bopping up and down while eating. Very beautiful, but again hard to get a good photo of with our little point and shoot camera. We saw all sorts of gazelles, including two Thompsons who were having a fight. Saw Ostriches and a few Eland. And saw a number of Hyenas.
We got back to camp about 5 PM, and we were all able to have warm showers, our first in two days. It was a warmer evening and we enjoyed down time around the campfire, another great dinner, and an early bedtime of 8:30 PM. No wind tonight, making it warmer and we slept we'll.
Tuesday, Feb 5 -
We had breakfast @ 7 AM and then set off for a game drive in the Crater again. We saw most of the same mammals and many of the same birds. Highlight of the morning was seeding the same Lion pride again, about 8 of them, and they again loved to nap in the shade of the. Vehicles. They walked so close to us that we could have touched them. We saw a Serval Cat stalking in the grasses .
And more Zebra-
And a Hammerkop -
We had lunch at the Hippo pond again.
We had lunch at the Hippo pond again.
Then we started our drive to Nasera Rock, by driving the Crater Rim road to the west side, then down onto the Ngorongoro Conservation area, to and through the Oldupai Gorge,which was a very dicey road, and then on up north to Nasera Rock, on the Serengeti. Amazing to keep seeing Thompson's Gazelles running across the fields, as well as Wildebeast, lots of giraffes. It was very dusty and warm, but not hot.
Nasera Rock from a distance -
We arrived around 6pm, which allowed us time to have a shower (1 bucket warm water per couple) before dinner. We also managed a walk around Nasera Rock, which proved interesting in that we saw Hyrax and Baboon in and on the rock. We were pleased to have gotten a chance for a real walk, our first 'hike' in days. After another tasty dinner, we were in bed by 9 PM, for a good night's sleep, with background noise of a strong, gusty wind.
Nasera Rock from a distance -
Wednesday , Feb. 6: Nasera Rock and environs
We had a leisurely 7:30 AM Breakfast, and then left for a game drive on the Ngorongoro Sererngeti. It is the vastness that is impressive, and so hard to record in photo or in word, not only the vast landscape, but also the vast numbers of animals, everywhere.
We saw Wildebeast migrating south, seeing them walking and running from one horizon to the next, very young ones as well. The Zebra are also migrating, though not in quite as large numbers. Thousands of Thompson's Gazelles were everywhere, running back and forth with their hopping kind of run. They do not migrate. And we saw a good number of Giraffes as well, who also do not migrate.
Saw two Ostriches briefly displaying. Several Hyenas were trotting across the plain,purpose unknown, and the surrounding gazelles, zebras, Wildebeest did not seem concerned by the hyena's presence. The very strong wind blew all morning, and well into the afternoon, and we found that exhausting.
We saw Wildebeast migrating south, seeing them walking and running from one horizon to the next, very young ones as well. The Zebra are also migrating, though not in quite as large numbers. Thousands of Thompson's Gazelles were everywhere, running back and forth with their hopping kind of run. They do not migrate. And we saw a good number of Giraffes as well, who also do not migrate.
Saw two Ostriches briefly displaying. Several Hyenas were trotting across the plain,purpose unknown, and the surrounding gazelles, zebras, Wildebeest did not seem concerned by the hyena's presence. The very strong wind blew all morning, and well into the afternoon, and we found that exhausting.
Lunch was at camp and then we actually has two hours of free time, time to nap, catch up on journals and photo sorting, reading. At Nasera rock, we have been met by a Massai, Eli, who is a ranger for Nongorogoro Conservation Area, speaks good English, and is quite a mix of old/ new- wears traditional Massai garb most of the time, carries his AK47 ( part of his job is protecting the area from poachers), has a satellite cell phone, wears hiking boots which he takes off when he rock climbs, etc.. He is an old friend of our leader, Jim, and became a good friend of ours:
At 4 PM we left with Eli, to visit a Maasai extended family home. It was a short walk away, which we thoroughly enjoyed. It is so very amazing to be out here in this vastness, almost by ourselves. The family enclave is a circular, fenced in area.
The use Acacia tree branches, and other kinds of tree branches to make the circular enclosure,so that it looks pretty natural from a distance. We estimate it to be about 100 feet across. They keep their cows, sheep, goats, and donkeys in this at night, to keep them safe, mostly from Hyena in this area. We met the Chief/Husband and his three wife's, one of whom is very pregnant.
There were several small children around as well. The older ones, he has 11, were out watching the cattle, sheep, goats, donkeys. They took us into one of the homes, a hut built of sticks and dung, barely tall enough to stand in, and very small rooms.
The fire is burning all the time and there is only one small opening, so it was very smokey. There were two rooms, one for cooking, with an area behind a curtain with a conjugal bed (only used when the husband came) and a bedroom for the woman and her children, with a tiny area for the baby goat and a shelf for their small number of utensils. There were two small low benches to sit on.
We were told that the woman builds her own hut, that the husband does not help at all! It was not clear whether he has his own separate hut as well. We looked at the jewelry that the women had to sell and some of our group bought a few necklaces and bracelets. A group photo was taken ( not on my camera) and then we all hiked back to our camp: time for showers and dinner. It continues to amaze me that we get hot showers every night, even here where water is in very short supply. Our crew needs to drive the truck 25 km to get the water! But, since it is provided, Imam certainly not going to disappoint anyone - I had a lovely shower and feel refreshed. The wind has died down and I am hoping it will stay quiet tonight.
At 4 PM we left with Eli, to visit a Maasai extended family home. It was a short walk away, which we thoroughly enjoyed. It is so very amazing to be out here in this vastness, almost by ourselves. The family enclave is a circular, fenced in area.
The use Acacia tree branches, and other kinds of tree branches to make the circular enclosure,so that it looks pretty natural from a distance. We estimate it to be about 100 feet across. They keep their cows, sheep, goats, and donkeys in this at night, to keep them safe, mostly from Hyena in this area. We met the Chief/Husband and his three wife's, one of whom is very pregnant.
There were several small children around as well. The older ones, he has 11, were out watching the cattle, sheep, goats, donkeys. They took us into one of the homes, a hut built of sticks and dung, barely tall enough to stand in, and very small rooms.
The fire is burning all the time and there is only one small opening, so it was very smokey. There were two rooms, one for cooking, with an area behind a curtain with a conjugal bed (only used when the husband came) and a bedroom for the woman and her children, with a tiny area for the baby goat and a shelf for their small number of utensils. There were two small low benches to sit on.
We were told that the woman builds her own hut, that the husband does not help at all! It was not clear whether he has his own separate hut as well. We looked at the jewelry that the women had to sell and some of our group bought a few necklaces and bracelets. A group photo was taken ( not on my camera) and then we all hiked back to our camp: time for showers and dinner. It continues to amaze me that we get hot showers every night, even here where water is in very short supply. Our crew needs to drive the truck 25 km to get the water! But, since it is provided, Imam certainly not going to disappoint anyone - I had a lovely shower and feel refreshed. The wind has died down and I am hoping it will stay quiet tonight.
Thursday, Feb 7 - at Nasera Rock & environs
The morning was leisurely. After breakfast, there was an expedition to climb Nasera Rock. We all started out, but only three of actually did the climb, as it turned out to be much more difficult than expected, pretty much scaling smooth rock. This is right up Neal's alley, but not Deb's. Neal, Mark, and Mike made the ascent along with Ali, our Maasai friend who was leading the hike, and a young Maasai woman. The two Maasai did this climb easily. They did it barefooted.
The rest of us walked around the rock, then watched the group descend, and then we all walked around around again, to look for a lost hat that had blown off Mark when he was on the top of the rock, but it was not found. This is another very high wind day, it having started up during the night again. It is pleasantly warm, probably in the 70s and the sky is very clear blue. Having a very restful end of the morning, reading and writing before lunch.
The rest of us walked around the rock, then watched the group descend, and then we all walked around around again, to look for a lost hat that had blown off Mark when he was on the top of the rock, but it was not found. This is another very high wind day, it having started up during the night again. It is pleasantly warm, probably in the 70s and the sky is very clear blue. Having a very restful end of the morning, reading and writing before lunch.
We went for afternoon walk with our Maasi friend, Ali, and a friend of his, out onto the surrounding Serengeti plain, were gone for 1.5 hours. It was really neat to be walking out there and we saw a good number of animals/birds. We saw Wildebeast, giraffe, zebra, Thompson's gazelle, and Grant's gazelle all grazing below us, not that far away. We saw a Secretary Bird, who we were ale to kind of follow for a while, very close up. It was quite amazing how close he let us come. They pointed out a succulent plant, phonetically spelled Engoswake plant, which has a root they eat both for the nutrition it gives, and also for the good amount of water they get from this tuber plant. They dug it up and we all had a bite.
I found it to be quite tasty, with a slight sweetness to it. The Maasai friend took it home so that the rest could be used. We found a Zebra skeleton, and the most interesting part was the teeth, large and powerful. It is now warmer, in the late afternoon, and the wind continues to blow.
I found it to be quite tasty, with a slight sweetness to it. The Maasai friend took it home so that the rest could be used. We found a Zebra skeleton, and the most interesting part was the teeth, large and powerful. It is now warmer, in the late afternoon, and the wind continues to blow.
Friday, Feb 8 - drive to Nduto
Had a leisurely breakfast, again with the strong wind, which he been unrelenting all night, keeping many of us awake, at least off and on. We combined driving to Nduto with. a game drive. Saw many more Wildebeast and Zebra migrating, and the usual Thompson 's gazelles in great numbers. Saw lions lounging under an Acacia tree and later a lone male in a bush. Saw many girrafe and watched 2 girrafe spar with each other, twisting necks, thumping each other on the rump.
It is much warmer down here on the southern Serengeti , and drier. We saw colorful new birds this afternoon: Fisher's Lovebirds, White Bellied Canaries, and Blue Capped Corob Blues - bright green, yellow, and blue. Then we saw two sets of Bat Eared Fox, which were really cute.
Today the issue is dust, not wind. We are all covered with a thin layer of dust, and our evening shower, a camping miracle, is most welcome. We are settling into our new campsite at Nduto, as the sun sets, where we will be for four nights. It is lovely, isolated, under Acacia trees. We hope to sleep well.
It is much warmer down here on the southern Serengeti , and drier. We saw colorful new birds this afternoon: Fisher's Lovebirds, White Bellied Canaries, and Blue Capped Corob Blues - bright green, yellow, and blue. Then we saw two sets of Bat Eared Fox, which were really cute.
Today the issue is dust, not wind. We are all covered with a thin layer of dust, and our evening shower, a camping miracle, is most welcome. We are settling into our new campsite at Nduto, as the sun sets, where we will be for four nights. It is lovely, isolated, under Acacia trees. We hope to sleep well.
Saturday, Feb. 9 - Nduto and environs
We spent the full day on a game drive, were gone for 11 hours, getting back at about 7 PM. We saw many of the same mammals - again the spectacle of the Wildebeast on the move, along with Zebra.
Saw Hippo again in a pond, and the other vehicle saw crocodile, which we missed. Great highlight of the day was seeing a Leopard lounging on a rock. But the best of the day was a Cheetah who literally walked right in front of us, crossed the road, and then stalked off into the grass.
We had really good look at it.
We spent time driving through the Kopjes (out croppings of rock, from previous volcanic activity), where lions like to hang out,
and where we saw one sleeping in the shade of the rock (yes, there really is one in the photo, but very hard to see). We had lunch - note our driver's T Shirt-
We came across a large herd of Elephants, with a number of young, who were playing with each other, and being clearly affectionate to each other. On the way back to camp we saw a Black Backed Jackal walking through the grass, and again saw the Bat Eared Fox.
Late and very refreshing showers, were followed by another great dinner - carrot/ginger soup, barbecued lamb, broccoli, fried potatoes,
We had really good look at it.
We spent time driving through the Kopjes (out croppings of rock, from previous volcanic activity), where lions like to hang out,
We came across a large herd of Elephants, with a number of young, who were playing with each other, and being clearly affectionate to each other. On the way back to camp we saw a Black Backed Jackal walking through the grass, and again saw the Bat Eared Fox.
Late and very refreshing showers, were followed by another great dinner - carrot/ginger soup, barbecued lamb, broccoli, fried potatoes,
Sunday, Feb. 10 - Nbuto and environs
Another day for a game drive. Though this has a lot of repetition regarding scenery, animals, birds, it has the advantage of fully impressing us on the vastness of this environment and an opportunity to watch various species participating in a variety of activities - eating, running, wandering, playing, fighting, being affectionate, occasionally sexual activity.
We mostly saw lions this morning, lounging on rocks in the shade, each one alone, and not very active, only occasionally lifting up heads and looking around, very elegantly. We saw lots of various vultures, here shown eating a gazelle.
A Martial Eagle was on top of a tree and showed himself off most elegantly.
A Martial Eagle was on top of a tree and showed himself off most elegantly.
After lunch of chicken curry rice and a green salad and mixed fruit bowel, we got a tour of the "kitchen" where our fantastic food is made.
They really do work wonders using two camp stoves, charcoal grills. They have two wooden tables to work off of. They have a tent( the pantry ) with all of food fresh produce that is from the market in Arusha. The one "gadget" that our cooks have is a large, good blender, which they use daily, as we have a creamed soup every night to start our dinner meal. There is a head cook/manager and then two sou chefs,and then there is a crew of about seven other men who maintain our water supply in the tents (toilets, sink, shower) and the plumbing issues, and the electricity via generator at night,and wash dishes and clothes etc.. Running this camp is really quite an amazing production, and they do a great job of it.
This our 'dining room'- eating tent:
And, our sleeping tents:
They really do work wonders using two camp stoves, charcoal grills. They have two wooden tables to work off of. They have a tent( the pantry ) with all of food fresh produce that is from the market in Arusha. The one "gadget" that our cooks have is a large, good blender, which they use daily, as we have a creamed soup every night to start our dinner meal. There is a head cook/manager and then two sou chefs,and then there is a crew of about seven other men who maintain our water supply in the tents (toilets, sink, shower) and the plumbing issues, and the electricity via generator at night,and wash dishes and clothes etc.. Running this camp is really quite an amazing production, and they do a great job of it.
We did late afternoon, early evening drive down to Nduto Lake where we enjoyed a much closer look at the Greater Flamingos as well as Pied Avocets and Blackwinged Stilts.
Before dinner, around the campfire, during drinks and, at the urging of Mark and others, Neal shared his thoughts on global warming and nuclear energy, and on his new patent. There has been significant interest in Neal's energy ideas and patent, with encouragement as well as some good ideas as to how he can continue to peruse this, get his reactor actually built.
Monday, Feb. 11 - Nduto and environs.
Back out on the Serengeti this morning for another game drive. The highlight of he morning was seeing that the Wildebeast have started calving in the last day, there were many less than day old calves in one herd that we watched, a lot of them barely on their feet. We saw them nursing, and walking alongside of their mothers, which they start doing immediately. There clearly is no peripartum rest period for Wildebeast. One mother was walking about, with her calf, with the afterbirth still coming out of her vagina. There are still plenty of Wildebeast who have not given birth yet, so we will likely see more babies tomorrow, and maybe actually get to see one born.
We had lunch and a short rest back at camp. It is warmer today, along with a modest breeze, so okay as long as you stay in the shade (which is where all the Zebra andhich Wildbeast were as we came back to camp at midday ).
These are Eland, shy and large antelope -
These are Eland, shy and large antelope -
After lunch we enjoyed two free hours. It almost rained: it blew, gusted, clouds, few drops, but no real rain. This was over by the time that we went out again at 4 PM, this time back to the lake. We saw eight more new bird species, and our list is up to about 180 now! They best this afternoon was a Secretary Bird in its nest on top of a tree, very beautiful and quite a site too see. We viewed the Flamingos again, and were treated to the Lesser Flamingos flying across the lake. On the way home our dessert was finding two lions lounging under some bushes, not terribly far from camp. I guess we won't be taking any late night strolls tonight!
Tuesday, Feb. 12 -Nduto and then drive to Olkarian Gorge Campsite.
We left camp around 9 AM, spending the morning ona game drive in the marshes, which required a special permit, so we had to go to the Nduto airstrip where the ranger was to issus it. All of this took about an hour! The marshes were well worth it. We saw lions lounging in the grass, and two other lions chasing Wildebeast and Zebra briefly, then sauntering back to rest in the grasses.
We were able to watch a Leopard and her two cubs under a tree. She kept having to get up to bring them back when they started to wander away. (Sorry, no photos of this- too far away/semi-obstructed)
There was a mud hole /pond where a Warthog family was drinking and wallowing in the mud.
Then, after another great lunch of vegetable chicken salad and fruit under an Accacia tree, we started the drive to our next campsite at Olkarian Gorge, three hours away. This is bumpy. Very difficult driving. Our driver 'Chingka' is superb and calm, always cheerful. And this is a good moment to mention his, and Abdi( the other driver)'s expertise at changing flat tires, of which we had 3:
We were very grateful to arrive safely, just before dark, to be greeted by the camp crew with mango juice and warm showers, and then another excellent dinner. There was a thunderstorm around 8 o'clock, mostly lightning and thunder and only a few raindrops.
We were very grateful to arrive safely, just before dark, to be greeted by the camp crew with mango juice and warm showers, and then another excellent dinner. There was a thunderstorm around 8 o'clock, mostly lightning and thunder and only a few raindrops.
Wednesday, Feb. 13 - Olkarian Gorge and environsm
We spent the morning hiking up Olkarian Gorge. Our Maasi friend, and Ngorongoro Conservation ranger, Elli, was back with us and led the hike for us, complete with his AK 47. We walked up the gorge about 1.25 miles.
This was completely different landscape for us, rocky, greener, with some water. There was a constant flow of goats and cattle, and their Maasai shepherd boys/women as they bring their herds up for water.
The water was in small holes that they had dug. They them protected these areas when not there by surrounding them with thorn Acacia bushes. There were a large number of vultures flying overhead and a good number of smaller birds in the trees. It was a great morning.
This was completely different landscape for us, rocky, greener, with some water. There was a constant flow of goats and cattle, and their Maasai shepherd boys/women as they bring their herds up for water.
The water was in small holes that they had dug. They them protected these areas when not there by surrounding them with thorn Acacia bushes. There were a large number of vultures flying overhead and a good number of smaller birds in the trees. It was a great morning.
We got back for lunch and found that the local Maasi women had set up a kind of shopping area in the field. Using sticks and twigs to make small racks to display the jewelry that they had made for sale.
After lunch we all went up and shopped, with the assistance of Elli, Jim, Abdi(one of our drivers). We succeeded in making some modest purchases.
. It took some time to fully resolve the issues about every seller getting correct change/payment. I couldn't understand a word of their Swahili but their body language spoke volumes.
After lunch we all went up and shopped, with the assistance of Elli, Jim, Abdi(one of our drivers). We succeeded in making some modest purchases.
. It took some time to fully resolve the issues about every seller getting correct change/payment. I couldn't understand a word of their Swahili but their body language spoke volumes.
It was very hot, so we relaxed around our tents until 5 PM and then went on a short birding drive along the dry river bed that was quite successful. We drove by two Maasi men who were preparing a goat for a barbecue. Then we stopped out on the plain of the Serengeti for a drink and to admire the sunset.
Then back to our tent home for our last night in this very special camp
Then back to our tent home for our last night in this very special camp
Thursday, Feb. 14 - Drive to Arusha & Arusha
We were up at 5 AM, had breakfast at 5:30, and we were driving to Arusha by 6:30 AM. It was another very bumpy ride, but we cut off one hour of the worst by taking some new route that our driver knew about. We arrived finally in Arusha about 1 PM, stopping first at the privately run Cultural Heritage Center.
This is run by a rather fascinating man, Seif, of Indian descent, who started out with a small shop and now has grown to a glorious center with well run, well priced shops of all varieties of African arts, crafts, gems, jewelry, statuary, masks, wall hangings AND a glorious museum of African art of all kinds. Seif built the facility, which is an architectural statement itself, with the symbol of a drum, shield, and spear. All of the art pieces are for sale, and he said that he uses the proceeds to fund two orphanages! He is one of these people who has done amazingly well and is sharing his wealth generously with others, and who is committed to furthering African art and history. A few of our group splurged on some Tanzanite jewelry. Most of us bought a number of souvenirs for ourselves and others, to supplement what we had already picked out from the Maasai when out on the Serengeti.
This is run by a rather fascinating man, Seif, of Indian descent, who started out with a small shop and now has grown to a glorious center with well run, well priced shops of all varieties of African arts, crafts, gems, jewelry, statuary, masks, wall hangings AND a glorious museum of African art of all kinds. Seif built the facility, which is an architectural statement itself, with the symbol of a drum, shield, and spear. All of the art pieces are for sale, and he said that he uses the proceeds to fund two orphanages! He is one of these people who has done amazingly well and is sharing his wealth generously with others, and who is committed to furthering African art and history. A few of our group splurged on some Tanzanite jewelry. Most of us bought a number of souvenirs for ourselves and others, to supplement what we had already picked out from the Maasai when out on the Serengeti.
We had a great lunch here, and met Jim's daughter that he is adopting, Melonia.
He 'found' her in the bush, in a cave with her grandmother, orphaned. He has sponsored her living in Arusha since then, 2007, and she has been in a boarding school. We has almost completed w fourth form (high school), and he hopes to finish adoption proceedings in next few months, and then bring her to USA. She has learned Swahili fluently as well as reasonable English. 21 years old, she is very shy and very sweet, and we look forward to getting to know her better when she moves to live with Jim in Pennsylvania in the fall.
He 'found' her in the bush, in a cave with her grandmother, orphaned. He has sponsored her living in Arusha since then, 2007, and she has been in a boarding school. We has almost completed w fourth form (high school), and he hopes to finish adoption proceedings in next few months, and then bring her to USA. She has learned Swahili fluently as well as reasonable English. 21 years old, she is very shy and very sweet, and we look forward to getting to know her better when she moves to live with Jim in Pennsylvania in the fall.
We finally got to our hotel ( yes, a hotel!) around 5 PM, and had time to settle in, swim, shower before dinner. The best new thing was Internet access, our first in 17 days! Here is Jim being greeted on our arrival by the staff, also an friend of his:
Friday, Feb. 15 - Arusha National Park
We spent today on a game/ birding drive in Arusha National Park, smaller than Tarnagire or Ngorongoro or the Serengeti but full of wildlife and birds. We saw ten new bird species today! Most of the new birds we saw around the marshes. We saw more monkeys, water buffalo, more flamingos, and, antelope, zebra.
Mt.Meru was visible but Mt. Kiaminjaro remained hidden in the clouds. After our drive, we had time to relax at our hotel, swim again, continue to try catch up on mails, etc. Sally and. Ramey left for Cape Town, so we were down one couple.
Mt.Meru was visible but Mt. Kiaminjaro remained hidden in the clouds. After our drive, we had time to relax at our hotel, swim again, continue to try catch up on mails, etc. Sally and. Ramey left for Cape Town, so we were down one couple.
Saturday, Feb. 16 - Arusha and travel home
The very last day and we decide to make the most of it. Luckily, we get to keep ou rooms until we leave for the airport at 5:30 PM. We decided to go back to the Cultural Heritage Center, so that we could spend more time in the museum,which has such a good collection of old and new African art. We then hung out and had lunch there, and some of our party even did some more shopping. It was a great way to spend the morning, in a relaxed way. We drove back to the hotel around 3, giving us good time for a swim, packing, nap before leaving for the airport. It is very hard to believe this trip is over, and that I will be home on 36 hours. We will miss the wonderful people that we have met, the sites and sounds and smells, the amazing wildlife and birds. We won't miss the dust, and will welcome plumbing that we can count on! Hopefully we will be able to come back some time, but at least we did finally get here. Here;s a final photo of our friends, Sandra and Brian, whom were shared our Land Rover, and our special driver, Raphiel ( Chinga):
We had an uneventful trip home, but long-- 9 hour flight to Amsterdam, 5 hour layover there, then 8 hours to Newark, then 4 hour drive down to DC. Total travel time from hotel to home about 36 hours. Got home Sunday night, Feb. 17th at 8 PM. Now to readjust to DC life-- why are there no wild animals by the side of the road??? How come all the roads are paved???
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What a fabulous trip! I thoroughly enjoyed your photos and your descriptions of the animals, scenery and people. Wow!!
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